No Jet Ski, No Problem. What It’s Like to Paddle into a 70-Foot Wave.

Tikanui Smith, a Tahitian big-wave surfer, recently attempted to paddle into a 70-foot wave at Nazare, Portugal, risking his life in pursuit of a surfing record. This effort highlights the extreme dangers and dedication involved in paddle-in big wave surfing, which contrasts with the more common tow-in method using jet skis.

Smith, known for his commitment to paddling into massive waves, described his recent experience during the attempt. The wave was so large that he realized he was in the impact zone and called for his safety jetski, which arrived quickly and collided with his board. Despite the heavy equipment and dangerous conditions, he tried to secure his board on the jetski before the wave broke, resulting in a long, intense wipeout that left him with cracked ribs.

He recounted that he was alone in the water, paddling away from the crowded jetski lineup near Nazare’s cliff, motivated by a desire to set a record and honor the spirit of big wave surfing. His previous experiences include a near-death in 2018 and a serious mountain biking accident, which temporarily led him to retire from surfing. However, his passion and belief in his destiny pushed him to return and aim for the record, despite the risks.

Why This Attempt Highlights the Spirit of Big Wave Surfing

This story underscores the extreme risks surfers take to chase record-breaking waves without the aid of tow-in technology. Smith’s attempt exemplifies the dedication, bravery, and physical resilience required for paddle-in big wave surfing, which is less common but highly revered for its purity and challenge. His story also raises awareness about the dangers involved and the evolving culture of big wave surfing, where risk and passion collide.

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Big Wave Surfing and Nazare’s Dangerous Reputation

Nazare, Portugal, is renowned for its giant waves, often reaching over 80 feet, making it a prime location for big wave surfing. Traditionally, surfers have used jetskis to tow into the waves, allowing them to ride massive swells that are too dangerous to paddle into. However, a growing number of surfers, including Smith, prefer paddling, which demands higher skill and courage. The use of technology like inflatable vests and jetskis has increased accessibility, but also led to crowded lineups and safety concerns. Smith’s recent attempt marks a notable effort to push the limits of paddle-in surfing in this treacherous environment.

“I thought it was my chance to break the record. Then I realized I wasn’t going to catch it. I was in the impact zone. It was going to break on me.”

— Tikanui Smith

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Unclear Outcomes and Future Attempts

It is not yet confirmed whether Smith’s recent attempt successfully set a new record or if he plans further paddle-in attempts. Details about the wave’s exact height and the outcome of the attempt remain unverified. The ongoing documentary filming may provide more clarity in the future.

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Next Steps for Smith and Big Wave Paddling

Smith plans to continue training and attempting record-breaking waves, aiming to paddle into even larger swells. His story is part of a broader movement to push the boundaries of paddle-in big wave surfing, with upcoming competitions and personal challenges likely on the horizon. The surfing community awaits further updates on his progress and potential record achievement.

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Key Questions

Did Tikanui Smith succeed in breaking the record?

It is not yet confirmed if Smith’s recent attempt resulted in a new record. Details are still emerging, and the outcome remains unverified.

Why is paddle-in surfing considered more dangerous?

Paddle-in surfing requires surfers to physically paddle into massive waves without the assistance of tow-in jetskis, demanding greater strength, skill, and bravery, especially in dangerous conditions like Nazare.

What are the risks involved in attempting such big waves?

Risks include being held underwater for extended periods, impact injuries, broken ribs, drowning, and even death, as experienced by Smith during his wipeouts.

How does technology influence big wave surfing?

Technologies like inflatable vests and jetskis have made big wave surfing more accessible but also increased crowding and safety concerns, while purists like Smith prefer paddling for its challenge and authenticity.

Source: Outside